Trends


Naos, or the art of a different vision of cosmetics

Jean-Noël Thorel, pharmacist and biologist, revolutionized the cosmetics field by introducing ecobiology in 1978, over 40 years ago, a new, innovative, and skin-respecting approach. From this vision emerged the brands Bioderma, Institut Esthederm, and Etat Pur.
They have established NAOS, a family-owned company with human values (based in Aix-en-Provence), as a leading international player in the skincare industry.

An innovative approach

NAOS stands out with its innovative approach to Ecobiology, drawing inspiration from natural living mechanisms. This holistic method aims to preserve the skin’s ecosystem and strengthen its natural defenses, ensuring healthy, beautiful, and sustainably strong skin. Rather than multiplying active ingredients, Ecobiology focuses on equipping the skin with the necessary tools to adapt and protect itself from environmental aggressions. Unlike traditional cosmetics that mask symptoms, this approach addresses the root causes of skin issues. Based on biomimicry, it observes and mimics natural biological processes to develop effective solutions that respect the biology and ecology of the skin. David Durand, the group's innovation director, and Elodie Vallin, the scientific valorization director, shed light on the three brands and their strategy.

Four pillars of Ecobiology

The skin, a clever and adaptable organ, uses biological mechanisms to adjust to its environment. At NAOS, we prefer to support these natural processes and only intervene when necessary, allowing the skin to regain its balance.

Treat the skin as an ecosystem
We view the skin as a living ecosystem to be protected. By using pure ingredients, precisely dosed, we preserve its natural balance despite external factors, ensuring its health and resilience.

Work with natural processes
The skin has effective biological mechanisms. At NAOS, we interact with these natural processes and intervene only when necessary to help the skin stabilize and adapt.

Address causes and symptoms
When dysfunction occurs, it is essential to adopt a global perspective to identify the root causes. At NAOS, our ecobiological approach tackles both the root causes and visible symptoms, ensuring a lasting solution rather than merely masking the problems.

Draw inspiration from nature
Nature, with billions of years of evolution, offers optimal solutions. At NAOS, we draw inspiration from natural mechanisms to develop respectful and effective technologies, observing nature first before creating our products.

Bioderma’s flagship product "Créaline H2o"

The group’s current growth in France and worldwide is exceptional. Bioderma, the flagship brand, has seen spectacular growth, partly thanks to its iconic best-seller, the micellar cleansing water Créaline H2o, known internationally as Sensibio. One unit of this product is sold every second worldwide, allowing the group to fund its expansion. As of today, the revenue is nearing 900 million euros, with the goal of reaching 1 billion by 2025. As David Durand points out, “We are already present in 100 countries and plan to expand further into Latin America, North America, Asia, Japan, and the United States.”
When asked about the innovation he is most proud of, David Durand replied:
“One product perfectly embodies our philosophy: Bioderma's Matricium, developed in 1991, initially designed for the skin of burn victims. We decided to relaunch and rework this product, which regenerates the skin and represents our vision of creating solutions to meet specific unmet needs in the market, while also having a positive ecological impact.”
For Élodie Vallin, it is crucial, according to NAOS’ Formulation Charter, to leave a positive footprint by using biomimetic ingredients, precisely dosed, multifunctional, and pure active ingredients.

New product launches in 2024

In 2024, two innovative eye products will hit the market. Bioderma’s “Créaline Yeux+”, aimed at atopic skin, is an all-in-one treatment addressing dark circles, puffiness, and wrinkles. Esthederm’s Intensive Retinol Yeux, on the other hand, is a targeted treatment for wrinkles in this ultra-sensitive area, stimulating collagen synthesis and densifying the epidermis.

The philosophy of NAOS: A global and sustainable vision of beauty

NAOS' ecobiological philosophy takes a holistic approach to health, extending beyond skincare into a global and sustainable vision. This method focuses on protecting the skin’s ecosystem by reinforcing its natural processes, encouraging the skin to adapt rather than relying on an abundance of treatments.
Their motto:
We believe that utopia is the best way to be the change we want for the world...
Octobre 2024
By Katya PELLEGRINO