Coquilles Saint-Jacques at Brasserie Julien, Paris
It's always difficult to say which of Flo's 12 establishments has the most stunning decor, however when you walk into Julien, with its bar by Majorelle, the Louis Trézel etched glass, its frescoes in the style of Mucha and the sumptuous floral glass ceiling, you are assailed with the sensation of having walked into "la Belle Époque". It is totally credible to believe that Sarah Bernhardt still haunts this place. The personnel are rightly proud of their heritage and of having made their debut here at Julien: one of the directors and chef, Jean Philippe Bourgueil (38 years old) has been here or at one of the other Flo establishments for the last twenty years.
Belle Époque ambiance
At the weekend, the brasserie serves up to 400 people each evening and the waiters will take you order up until 1 a.m. in the small hours!
We love the tables lined up in regimental style and lit with globes doing double-duty as coat stands, giving off a gentle, inviting light. So go on, allow yourself to be tempted by the current seasonal menu, which has for starters a copious cassoulette of crawfish tails in Sauternes on a bed of spinach and mushrooms, or a carpaccio of scallops, marinated in jus de la Passion. To follow, in the same groove, try the noix de St. Jacques with mushrooms, broad beans and parsnips or alternatively the noix de Saint-Jacques on a bed of leeks with little pieces of Morteau sausage. In fact, there are a total of 8 Saint-Jacques dishes available throughout the week. What could be better?!
Specialities of the house
All this makes a change from the usual house specialities like tete de veau, sauce gribiche (a vinaigrette made with chopped boiled eggs, gherkins, capers and herbs), pan fried escalope of duck foie gras, or the Belle Meurnière sole.
I confess to a little disappointment over my dessert course on this occasion: the lightly spiced pear tart with its melt-in-the-mouth fruit should have a crisp pastry base... a combination to check, chef!
However, a point to cheer: the Pommery millésimé 1998 is available by the glass, and there is a good selection of fine wines, with some of the Bordeaux not overpriced.
Octobre 2008
By Gilles BROCHARD
