Le Jules Verne
The Eiffel Tower fascinates me, each time I park my car on the other side of the Seine, I admire it, now I have had the opportunity to transform the restaurant into a tour de France, a showcase for my cuisine, French products and wines”, said Alain Ducasse at the opening of Le Jules Verne, in December 2007.
With 19 Michelin stars (one recently awarded to the JV) Ducasse has already taken haute cuisine to great heights, but opening a restaurant in the Eiffel Tower, 125 meters above ground. comes with many challenges.
A private lift takes excited diners, who feel they are floating in space, to the 2nd floor of Paris's most loved and visited landmark. Ascending to one set of tunes, descending to another, the mix by Guillaume Sorge includes Edith Piaf as well as modern French artists.
Entering the 120-seater Jules Verne, the first sighting is the open kitchen, white toques bob, bob, bob, under the direction of Executive chef Pascal Feraud. No gas flames are allowed because of fire risk, and, as space is tight in the angled kitchen, food is washed and prepped “below” under the Champ-de-Mars in a space-age cuisine-laboratoire.
Continue through to the restaurant, Paris is at your feet, natural light floods the space, illuminates it during the day, makes it soft and sensual at night. Opposite the bar and its' “squashy” sofa, a showcase features restaurant memorabilia that make great gifts and souvenirs, say, “Structure” the presentation plate by Pierre Tachon, a Jules Verne aromatic candle based on Alain Ducasse's favourite dessert “Nuage Lacté”, porcelain dolls by Alber Elbaz. Now here's a tip, reserve a window seat when you book, you may get the Sarkozy's table.
Architect designer Patrick Jouin, born in Nantes as was Jules Verne, transformed the former sombre Slavik décor into a fantasy world of beige and chocolate colour sci-fi, techno, poetry, glamour and emotion. Fascinated by the “Iron Lady” since winning a drawing competition, aged 8, the prize, a trip to Paris, Jouin advises: “Climb aboard the Eiffel Tower as if you're embarking on a journey”. Every item has a story, even the Jouin designed leather and carbon fiber chairs manufactured by Matra-D3, a member company of Groupe Pininfarina, who design Ferraris. The elegant suits worn by Directors of the Salle Frederic Rouen and Francis Coulon are by Lanvin 15 Faubourg. Lanvin, the oldest French couture house was created in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin.
Unfurl a “sheet” sized table napkin, admire Pierre Tachon's “Structure” presentation plate with its' organic base influenced by the architecture of the Eiffel Tower, the porcelain's French, the “chopstick” presentation cutlery by designer Paulo Vale from Porto, ebony knives by Coutellerie Chambriard, Thiers. Now study the menu, a re-working of Ducasse's classic French dishes, revised and corrected for the 21st century.
On the lunch menu choose from 3 starters: 3 mains and three desserts. These dishes also appear on the six-course Menu Degustation. Marinated daurade, French caviar,mimosa garnish and lemon condiment or poached Brittany lobster, celery rémoulade and shaved wild apple. Mains are baked sea bass with mussels and shimps. Pan-seared turbot, crayfish and mushrooms “a la Riche”. Bresse chicken, vegetables, jus. Beef tournedos are pan-seared, Perigeux sauced, matched with fresh duck foie gras and feather-light pommes soufflés The breads for “mopping” the light sauces are too good to overlook. Desserts by Jean-Baptiste Priolet include L'Ecrou au Chocolat, “tower bolt”, dark chocolate praliné, hazlenut ice-cream or bitter chocolate soufflé. Savarin with armagnac, all light and delicious. Wines are 100% French, selected by Gérard Margeon, chef sommelier for Groupe Alain Ducasse, an invitation to a journey through Burgundy, the Rhône, Bordeaux, and Champagne of course. Each month a region is invited to showcase its' finest productions. Nice Proustian touch as you leave, a bag of Madeleines.
For Alain Ducasse the passion continues, watch for the opening of the 1st floor Eiffel Tower restaurant/brasserie also designed by Patrick Jouin. Whatever next? “Who knows”, laughs Ducasse, the Empire State Building or a restaurant on Mars, that's a way to get closer to the stars n'est pas?”
Margaret Kemp
A private lift takes excited diners, who feel they are floating in space, to the 2nd floor of Paris's most loved and visited landmark. Ascending to one set of tunes, descending to another, the mix by Guillaume Sorge includes Edith Piaf as well as modern French artists.
Entering the 120-seater Jules Verne, the first sighting is the open kitchen, white toques bob, bob, bob, under the direction of Executive chef Pascal Feraud. No gas flames are allowed because of fire risk, and, as space is tight in the angled kitchen, food is washed and prepped “below” under the Champ-de-Mars in a space-age cuisine-laboratoire.
Continue through to the restaurant, Paris is at your feet, natural light floods the space, illuminates it during the day, makes it soft and sensual at night. Opposite the bar and its' “squashy” sofa, a showcase features restaurant memorabilia that make great gifts and souvenirs, say, “Structure” the presentation plate by Pierre Tachon, a Jules Verne aromatic candle based on Alain Ducasse's favourite dessert “Nuage Lacté”, porcelain dolls by Alber Elbaz. Now here's a tip, reserve a window seat when you book, you may get the Sarkozy's table.
Architect designer Patrick Jouin, born in Nantes as was Jules Verne, transformed the former sombre Slavik décor into a fantasy world of beige and chocolate colour sci-fi, techno, poetry, glamour and emotion. Fascinated by the “Iron Lady” since winning a drawing competition, aged 8, the prize, a trip to Paris, Jouin advises: “Climb aboard the Eiffel Tower as if you're embarking on a journey”. Every item has a story, even the Jouin designed leather and carbon fiber chairs manufactured by Matra-D3, a member company of Groupe Pininfarina, who design Ferraris. The elegant suits worn by Directors of the Salle Frederic Rouen and Francis Coulon are by Lanvin 15 Faubourg. Lanvin, the oldest French couture house was created in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin.
Unfurl a “sheet” sized table napkin, admire Pierre Tachon's “Structure” presentation plate with its' organic base influenced by the architecture of the Eiffel Tower, the porcelain's French, the “chopstick” presentation cutlery by designer Paulo Vale from Porto, ebony knives by Coutellerie Chambriard, Thiers. Now study the menu, a re-working of Ducasse's classic French dishes, revised and corrected for the 21st century.
On the lunch menu choose from 3 starters: 3 mains and three desserts. These dishes also appear on the six-course Menu Degustation. Marinated daurade, French caviar,mimosa garnish and lemon condiment or poached Brittany lobster, celery rémoulade and shaved wild apple. Mains are baked sea bass with mussels and shimps. Pan-seared turbot, crayfish and mushrooms “a la Riche”. Bresse chicken, vegetables, jus. Beef tournedos are pan-seared, Perigeux sauced, matched with fresh duck foie gras and feather-light pommes soufflés The breads for “mopping” the light sauces are too good to overlook. Desserts by Jean-Baptiste Priolet include L'Ecrou au Chocolat, “tower bolt”, dark chocolate praliné, hazlenut ice-cream or bitter chocolate soufflé. Savarin with armagnac, all light and delicious. Wines are 100% French, selected by Gérard Margeon, chef sommelier for Groupe Alain Ducasse, an invitation to a journey through Burgundy, the Rhône, Bordeaux, and Champagne of course. Each month a region is invited to showcase its' finest productions. Nice Proustian touch as you leave, a bag of Madeleines.
For Alain Ducasse the passion continues, watch for the opening of the 1st floor Eiffel Tower restaurant/brasserie also designed by Patrick Jouin. Whatever next? “Who knows”, laughs Ducasse, the Empire State Building or a restaurant on Mars, that's a way to get closer to the stars n'est pas?”
Margaret Kemp
Mars 2009