Guy Martin a chef for the 21st century
It's a well known fact that chefs work long hours but you do wonder when superchef Guy Martin ever has time to sleep. Not only Grand Vefour, his 2-star Michelin restaurant at Palais Royal, but also his cookery school L'Atelier de Guy Martin which incorporates MIYOU a bio sandwich, salad bar. Add Sensing and the new Sensing, Boston, USA, book projects, TV documentaries, Baccarat's The Cristal Room, an Annick Goutal fragrance, the list is endless.
Awarded three Michelin stars in 2000, Martin lost one in 2008. Instead of taking his foot off the peddle it seems to have put a tiger in his tank, his head spins with new ideas, his constant curiosity leads him to create new dishes, addresses and projects.
On the loss of the star Jean-Luc Naret, director of Michelin commented: “In Guy Martin's case, that doesn't mean the talent is sullied; it's simply that the consistency is no longer there”. “That's Michelin's choice, it's them who must decide, chef's don't count it's the dishes that matter”, is the only comment Martin made. In March 2003 he was awarded the Legion d'Honneur. At the time Hervé Gaymard, French Minister of Agriculture, said Martin's cooking brings together regional and international flavours, noting that it is “touched with classicism while mindful of modernity”.
It's Sunday morning and Guy Martin sits in the pretty garden of the Atelier, we eat smoked salmon and scrambled eggs as he explains his concept. “The cooking workshop is the logical extension of my world”. To-day's brunch, with the participation of the newspaper Journal de Dimanche, will become a regular feature to introduce the state-of-the-art kitchens and school, “eat from the delicious brunch buffet, or cook along with the chefs, bring the children”, he suggests, his daughter Ambre close by.
It took Martin two years to locate the handsome multi-story hotel particulier, which he gutted and had checked for Feng Shui. “It had to be exceptional”, he insists. “A place, not only for cooking, but to learn the art of the cocktail, throw private parties, exhibit art, which is in the hands of art expert Michael Wilson”. And there's also a boutique and library, necceasry to house the many books he's written. The front accomodates MIYOU, the organic sandwich, juice and salad bar. “Come for the day, or for thirty minutes to learn how to cook a fast lunch, it's a way of life here”, he says.
Art is a big part of Martin's life, some of his dishes are inspired by regular visits to the Louvre. “It's colour and shape, I make sketches on bits of paper, create the recipe in my head, taste the result by instinct even before it's cooked”, he explains. “As an art and music afficionado, when I had the opportunity to take over the kitchens at Baccarat's Le Cristal Room, I knew they'd made me an offer I couldn't refuse”, he admits. “For me Le Grand Vefour and Le Cristal Room are the two most spectacular settings in Paris to showcase my cuisine, it's a very exciting project”.
The restaurant is located on the first floor of the handsome 19th century townhouse, formerly home to the Vicomtesse de Noailles one of the 20th century's most daring and influential patrons of the arts: this was the dining room where Marie-Laure entertained Cocteau, Salvador Dali, Man Ray, Balthus, Bunuel and le tout Paris.
“In the kitchen is my talented lieutenant Thomas L'Herrison, you'll taste superb dishes”, promises Martin. The menu is short, changing with the seasons, using exciting products”, he explains. “I have more or less the same suppliers as Grand Vefour”, says L'Herrison. The young chef was trained by Thierry Marx,Eric Frechon and, for the last three years, has been second to Guy Martin at Grand Vefour. “The dishes must match the splendour of Baccarat, we planned menus before we began working here which we have thrown out”, he laughs. “We have a lunch menu at 55€ which is very popular and some excellent wines, which taste even better from Baccarat glasses”, smiles L'Herrison.
The cheeky/chic neo-empire décor of the Baccarat Maison is by Philippe Starck. He kept to the original designs and proportions while giving his signature touches of witty and brilliant design daring. In the dining room Starck stripped the walls back to the red brick, framed them with outsize mirrors, the effect is stunning. Baccarat crystal is, of course, everywhere, in the elegant private dining room the centre-piece is an extraordinary black chandelier.
The future is bright for Martin, who grew up in the Savoy region of France, an extreme skier he says once you have learned respect for the mountain, the rest is easy. “For me there are no taboos, in a violent world, cooking is a wonderful way of communicating; holding out a hand. Cooking knows no borders, I'm at home everywhere, for me it means emotion, love and respect”, he reflects. And with that he's off to the kitchen, his favourite recipe, “the one I'm going to create tomorrow”.
Margaret Kemp
On the loss of the star Jean-Luc Naret, director of Michelin commented: “In Guy Martin's case, that doesn't mean the talent is sullied; it's simply that the consistency is no longer there”. “That's Michelin's choice, it's them who must decide, chef's don't count it's the dishes that matter”, is the only comment Martin made. In March 2003 he was awarded the Legion d'Honneur. At the time Hervé Gaymard, French Minister of Agriculture, said Martin's cooking brings together regional and international flavours, noting that it is “touched with classicism while mindful of modernity”.
It's Sunday morning and Guy Martin sits in the pretty garden of the Atelier, we eat smoked salmon and scrambled eggs as he explains his concept. “The cooking workshop is the logical extension of my world”. To-day's brunch, with the participation of the newspaper Journal de Dimanche, will become a regular feature to introduce the state-of-the-art kitchens and school, “eat from the delicious brunch buffet, or cook along with the chefs, bring the children”, he suggests, his daughter Ambre close by.
It took Martin two years to locate the handsome multi-story hotel particulier, which he gutted and had checked for Feng Shui. “It had to be exceptional”, he insists. “A place, not only for cooking, but to learn the art of the cocktail, throw private parties, exhibit art, which is in the hands of art expert Michael Wilson”. And there's also a boutique and library, necceasry to house the many books he's written. The front accomodates MIYOU, the organic sandwich, juice and salad bar. “Come for the day, or for thirty minutes to learn how to cook a fast lunch, it's a way of life here”, he says.
Art is a big part of Martin's life, some of his dishes are inspired by regular visits to the Louvre. “It's colour and shape, I make sketches on bits of paper, create the recipe in my head, taste the result by instinct even before it's cooked”, he explains. “As an art and music afficionado, when I had the opportunity to take over the kitchens at Baccarat's Le Cristal Room, I knew they'd made me an offer I couldn't refuse”, he admits. “For me Le Grand Vefour and Le Cristal Room are the two most spectacular settings in Paris to showcase my cuisine, it's a very exciting project”.
The restaurant is located on the first floor of the handsome 19th century townhouse, formerly home to the Vicomtesse de Noailles one of the 20th century's most daring and influential patrons of the arts: this was the dining room where Marie-Laure entertained Cocteau, Salvador Dali, Man Ray, Balthus, Bunuel and le tout Paris.
“In the kitchen is my talented lieutenant Thomas L'Herrison, you'll taste superb dishes”, promises Martin. The menu is short, changing with the seasons, using exciting products”, he explains. “I have more or less the same suppliers as Grand Vefour”, says L'Herrison. The young chef was trained by Thierry Marx,Eric Frechon and, for the last three years, has been second to Guy Martin at Grand Vefour. “The dishes must match the splendour of Baccarat, we planned menus before we began working here which we have thrown out”, he laughs. “We have a lunch menu at 55€ which is very popular and some excellent wines, which taste even better from Baccarat glasses”, smiles L'Herrison.
The cheeky/chic neo-empire décor of the Baccarat Maison is by Philippe Starck. He kept to the original designs and proportions while giving his signature touches of witty and brilliant design daring. In the dining room Starck stripped the walls back to the red brick, framed them with outsize mirrors, the effect is stunning. Baccarat crystal is, of course, everywhere, in the elegant private dining room the centre-piece is an extraordinary black chandelier.
The future is bright for Martin, who grew up in the Savoy region of France, an extreme skier he says once you have learned respect for the mountain, the rest is easy. “For me there are no taboos, in a violent world, cooking is a wonderful way of communicating; holding out a hand. Cooking knows no borders, I'm at home everywhere, for me it means emotion, love and respect”, he reflects. And with that he's off to the kitchen, his favourite recipe, “the one I'm going to create tomorrow”.
Margaret Kemp
Mai 2009
