Is happiness in organic products?
With some 350 new products in 2007 and 350,000 users, French organic cosmetics are noticeably taking off, nibbling away, little by little, at the market share of more "techno" oriented cosmetics. But the price of success obliges, organic products will also have to face new challenges... Time to take stock.
Organic products and techno: reassurance vs. efficiency?
New trademarks are invading our lines and reaching as far as our supermarket shelves (OLC, Bioexigence...), traditional brands no longer hesitate to split into two (Nuxe, Ushuaïa...), as a wave of purchasing in series ends up blurring the tracks (Sanoflore and L'Oréal, Kibio and Clarins...): clearly, since the electroshock of 2005 incited by Envoyé Spécial and Que Choisir, organic products in France have made the greatest progression in Europe. And for a reason, breaking with the clerical austerity of its beginnings, the organic sector has gone in for more appealing textures, surfing on the eco-friendly boom and has taken on the role of a refuge for a minority of the population disenchanted by the potential threats from parabens and other phthalates. Does that mean that today, natural products can dare to rival in the area of efficiency with the most important brands that are conspicuously technological? That is worth thinking about, with market share forecasts hardly exceeding 10% for 2010, there is still a fairly large margin of manoeuvre. However, there are still a certain number of pitfalls to be overcome...
The bio-tiful treatments
Many hopes but several stumbling blocks to be overcome: greener than pink, the future of organic products risks in reality to be decided in the upcoming quarter. Due to a lack of scientific evidence, textures requiring improvement, tolerance which is not systematically irreproachable, the legal obligation of a carbon assessment (what about Brazilian actives?), the growing scarcity of raw materials (sandalwood, lavender...), it does not mean much to say that organic products must still consolidate their bases in hopes of competing with chemical treatments focusing on performance as well as skilfully combining cellular therapy, gene therapy and anti-aging proteins : all while happily promoting cosmetics using equipment. Enough to fuel the fantasy of eternal youth... This being, the rationalization of formulas, emphasis on the seasonality of products (when will there be a cream for the European summer?), the 100% safe and eco-spa centres focused on the individual, organic products can hope to gain ground from the "techno" in its own territory and convince the followers of "age-maintenance". Because, it is clear, that the three-part passport « sports, wellness and self-care », the ultimate passport for beautiful skin, do not necessarily mean through invasive procedures and barbaric appellations. But this will take a bit of persuasion...