San Martin: Sea, sport and sun
Argentina, the country of football thanks to Maradona, is also that of polo, horses and gauchos. About five hours south of the « B.A. » road, the Mar del Plata has become « the » beach resort on the Atlantic coast and is really the must of the musts in national tourism. It will take you a certain number of kilometres to the south to reach spacious areas and the tranquillity of the pampas, where the San Martin domain opens its doors for you.
Polo Spirit
With its typical, colonial architecture, this 19th century estancia is one of the oldest of the region: patio, veranda, mahogany furniture, black and white marble checkered ground… At San Martin, you will find the charm of a Victorian residence converted into a Bed and Breakfast for just over a year now with 13 rooms and where Ale, the host has concocted the simple and warm deco. As soon as you step foot onto the estancia, you are entering an Argentinean lifestyle where the traveller is also invited to indulge in seaside activities (the Atlantic is about 20 minutes by car for kiting or surfing), touristic visits in the neighbouring areas or horseback riding pleasures.
All is made to glorify the Argentinean history, that of gauchos, horses and polo. In San Martin, the tradition of gauchos is perpetuated with about 180 cows, but also especially cattle raising and sale of polo horses (about 70 of them) which represent the main activity of the estancia where we live, play and think polo. The season is in full swing from October to March and matches are held on one of the two fields located near the house.
Centaur of the pampas
At the head of the San Martin domain since 2000, is Juan de Elia, a character straight out of a Borgès novel : revolted against injustice and the capitalist arrogance of his country. Associated since 2004 with his American partner, Coast Sullenger, the former professional polo player perpetuates family values and the polo soul. Hailing from an old pioneer family and the youngest of 8 children, Juan has always lived in contact with horses. England, Germany, Spain, France, Switzerland (he created the Veytay Club in 1994), USA, the young groom who became one of the best polo players in the world, has dragged his boots all around the world, his blue eyes looking from one field to the other.
Juan, is like a horse breaking into full gallop as early as the morning : he instils a passion and an energy into the estancia that he drives as a patriarch. If you were to ask him, if he were a horse, he would reply jokingly « the best »… But Juan is especially one idea per second, a dream every day and 48 hours in 24 hours… When others are walking, he is trotting, he stamps, with the pride of his 60 years, he crosses the domain at breakneck speed. « The day I stop dreaming, I prefer to give up living ».
His latest challenge : to prolong and realize his father’s dream who had a small house here and wanted to combine polo and beach. Juan took the ’bit in his teeth’ to attack …the Atlantic. No less. His project is the construction of a polo field with all infrastructures on the sand, in the middle of sand hills, fighting against winds, tides and storms. 200 hectares facing the ocean, not less than 800 lorries have been used to remove one part of the sand, tons of straw to stabilise it and patience, much patience to see the first blade of grass grow in 2007. A gigantic job in the middle of nowhere in a magical and unique decor. This polo field is David against Goliath, but it doesn’t matter. Juan, the knight of modern days, believes in it. And when evening falls, after an asado with his friends, the warrior lays down his arms, then it is the poet who opens his heart and sings the story of his country : a wild voice, proud and modest that talks first about freedom.