'Les Crayères' revisited by Philippe Mille
After the spectacular departure of executive Chef Didier Elena and his two Michelin stars, the gastronomic world awaited eagerly for his replacement to raise to the challenge of maintaining the reputation of this prestigious hotel. Philippe Mille, the young Chef, seems well and truly to have succeeded in restoring this Domain to its former glory with its well-earned claim to a fifth Michelin star. Let's take a closer look at this extraordinary hotel that moves with the times whilst remaining faithful to its traditional roots.
So there!
Hervé Fort, an Aveyronnais, was named manager of the Domain at the end of 2009. The much coveted fifth star was obtained, thus strengthening the reputation of the quality of this hotel required by the 'Relais and Chateau' chain. This was enough to dry the tears of those mourning the departure of Didier Elena and his stars.
The restaurant ' Le Parc ' experienced a revival, orchestrated by the talents of 35 year old Chef Philippe Mille. One objective was in mind, recreate the harmony between the elegant Domain and the cuisine typical of the Rheims region.
At just 55 minutes from Paris, by the fast train 'TGV', gastronomy worthy of its name can be experienced. It goes without saying that the best products of Champagne's soil are used in these gourmet dishes.
The risk was considerable for Philippe Mille. But with his experience as ex-deputy head for Yannick Alleno, with the 'Meilleurs Ouvriers' of France (Michel Roth of 'Lasserre' and the 'Ritz', Louis Grondard of 'Drouant' and Frédéric Anton of the 'Meadow Catelan') and as three star Chef at the 'Meurice', Philippe was well equipped to put his saucepans into action and create a refined French Haute Cuisine menu that would make an impression at the gastronomic restaurant ' Le Parc '.
A real cook's kitchen
The dishes are simple, with ingredients prepared in a classic way in order to maintain the original flavours, whilst the presentation is modern.
Philippe Mille, the 'Bocuse' bronze medalist in 2009, has three fundamental rules in his culinary philosophy; the quality of the product, the cooking and the seasoning.
A return to basics then is what you can expect to find on your plate.
A roasted sea bass in carrot juice, peas and celery heated up by a touch of ginger, a simple roasted Bresse chicken breast, white asparagus powdered with hazelnuts.... good old fashioned recipes reminiscent of childhood.
The inspiration for these modest dishes comes from Philippe's childhood spent in the Sarthois countryside. Potted chicken cooked slowly over a wooden stove, the smell of lightly toasted bread, and a good and simple roast chicken are what inspires Philippe in his kitchen. His know-how creates dishes expressing their utmost gourmet potential. Beef is poached in a meat stock, the veal is ever so slightly crisped in a pan. It is enough to put your taste buds into action and entice you to re-discover the region of Reims whilst staying in one of the 20 bedrooms and suites at the ' Chateau Les Crayères '.
Hervé Fort, an Aveyronnais, was named manager of the Domain at the end of 2009. The much coveted fifth star was obtained, thus strengthening the reputation of the quality of this hotel required by the 'Relais and Chateau' chain. This was enough to dry the tears of those mourning the departure of Didier Elena and his stars.
The restaurant ' Le Parc ' experienced a revival, orchestrated by the talents of 35 year old Chef Philippe Mille. One objective was in mind, recreate the harmony between the elegant Domain and the cuisine typical of the Rheims region.
At just 55 minutes from Paris, by the fast train 'TGV', gastronomy worthy of its name can be experienced. It goes without saying that the best products of Champagne's soil are used in these gourmet dishes.
The risk was considerable for Philippe Mille. But with his experience as ex-deputy head for Yannick Alleno, with the 'Meilleurs Ouvriers' of France (Michel Roth of 'Lasserre' and the 'Ritz', Louis Grondard of 'Drouant' and Frédéric Anton of the 'Meadow Catelan') and as three star Chef at the 'Meurice', Philippe was well equipped to put his saucepans into action and create a refined French Haute Cuisine menu that would make an impression at the gastronomic restaurant ' Le Parc '.
A real cook's kitchen
The dishes are simple, with ingredients prepared in a classic way in order to maintain the original flavours, whilst the presentation is modern.
Philippe Mille, the 'Bocuse' bronze medalist in 2009, has three fundamental rules in his culinary philosophy; the quality of the product, the cooking and the seasoning.
A return to basics then is what you can expect to find on your plate.
A roasted sea bass in carrot juice, peas and celery heated up by a touch of ginger, a simple roasted Bresse chicken breast, white asparagus powdered with hazelnuts.... good old fashioned recipes reminiscent of childhood.
The inspiration for these modest dishes comes from Philippe's childhood spent in the Sarthois countryside. Potted chicken cooked slowly over a wooden stove, the smell of lightly toasted bread, and a good and simple roast chicken are what inspires Philippe in his kitchen. His know-how creates dishes expressing their utmost gourmet potential. Beef is poached in a meat stock, the veal is ever so slightly crisped in a pan. It is enough to put your taste buds into action and entice you to re-discover the region of Reims whilst staying in one of the 20 bedrooms and suites at the ' Chateau Les Crayères '.
Janvier 2011
By Natacha Pavol
