3 south of France hotels
Michelin star chef Philippe da Silva (ex-Chiberta, Paris) and his wife Martine have created a country house hotel, showcasing the bounty of Provence. The rich mix of clients include many ministers and celebrities who appreciate the discrete atmosphere, the herb garden and sculpture park with dramatic outsize works by Bernard Bezzina. Some touch down on the helipad, either in their own machines or flown in by Heli-Air Monaco.
Stay at Les Gorges in one of the 16 rooms or suites to take advantage of the Thalgo Spa, added this year, as well as the infinity swimming pool overlooking the lake where swans glide elegantly by and geese strut their stuff.
Lunch and dinner are served on the shady terrace, or in the restaurant, but be warned, make sure you're hungry! Da Silva is the most generous of chefs, wants each client to taste his latest creations. With a confident hand he sends out tender lobster salad with tomato confit: ravioli of foie gras: creamy risotto: pigeon roasted with garden vegetables: lavender flavoured spicy duck to be mopped up with warm homemade bread. Da Silva keeps little surprises arriving, then a palate cleansing champagne and yogurt sorbet before a multitude of sensational desserts. The cheese chariot includes Fourme d'Ambert and excellent local goat cheeses from Madame Fleuri as well as Ceneri, Cannes.
Head Sommelier Romauld Germa will advise on wines to match your food. The white Provence GrandsEsclans CuvéePrestige comes from nearby Château d'Esclans (65€). Château Paradis cuvée Sarah rosé 2009 (60€) or the full bodied red Château Roubine, Terre de Croix 2006 (70€). Afterwards work off the calories on the tennis court, jog to the village, play boules or discuss your next meal with the gregarious da Silva. “I finish the service at 2 in the morning then head straight to the market in Nice”, he admits. That's passion for you.
Not a lot of people know that the listed Art-Deco style Belles Rives Hotel,Juan les Pins, previously “Villa St. Louis” was home, in the roaring 20's, to the writer F Scott Fitzgerald, his wacky wife Zelda and their jet-set friends. Or that water sking was invented in the bay of Juan by a chap called Leo Roman.
The Belles Rives has 43 rooms and suites with stunning Carrara marble bathrooms much appreciated by the likes of Bjorn Borg, Django Reinhart, Annie Lennox, Ringo Starr, Kevin Spacey, Arsene Wenger & Co., the FitzgeraldPiano Bar's very “Tender is the Night”.
At lunch, eat at the beach restaurant with your feet in the water, or in your own private “cabine”. Specialities are chilled Cavaillon melon, steak tartare, grilled sea-bass and a daily pastry buffet. Book Le Passagere restaurant for romantic dinners on the panoramic terrace overlooking the Lerins Islands, or in cooler weather the art-deco dining room, restored with tender loving care by owner Marianne Estène-Chauvin, to its' handsome 1930's décor.
La Passagere's young talented chef Guillaume Anor, trained with the greats and creates light “Riviera Cuisine” using local products, seafood and fish fresh from the market, say Lobster Cannelloni, coral seashell sauce followed by miniature stuffed vegetables with tomato coulis. Mains include steamed wild seabass, “artichauts barigoule à ma faҫon. Veal is long roasted, served with a cocotte of vegetables. For autumn and winter the menu features local game and purée of baby carrots. Chef patissier Jean Michel Llorca creates avant-garde sculptural desserts such as: Luscious lips of cheesecake, fresh raspberries and his spin on Black Forest cake with chocolate Manjari from Madagascar. The Sommelier proposes perfect wines to match. Say, crisp white Corsican AOC Clos Canarelli 2007 (60€) or Domaine de la Courtade 2004 from the nearby Porquerolles Islands (65€)
The Grand Hotel, originally built in 1862 is not only the oldest luxury hotel in Cannes but with eleven floors, it's the tallest. Following a recent £6 million pound facelift there are now 74 rooms and two suites. The top floor suites have wide decks, jacuzzis and sensational views over Cannes, Le Suquet and the Lerins Islands.
There are three types of rooms and suites with either city/mountain or sea views,
all have marble bathrooms, plasma TV's and Bulgari products. Touches of Philippe Starck punctuate the décor, the architects combined practicality, comfort with ultra modern design keeping the retro-funky zeitgeist of Le Grand Hotel.
Executive chef Sebastien Broda, (ex- la Palme d'Or, Jarrier and Lou Cigalon, Valbonne with Alain Parodis etc.) snagged a Michelin star last March at the Grand'sLe Park 45 restaurant, and was dubbed “Le Petit Prince de la Croisette”. Broda's cuisine is young and exciting, in the kitchen the team wear baseball hats, not traditional chefs toques. During the week it's “La Semaine de Sebastien”. At lunch in the restaurant or on the terrace with a view of his herb garden, there's different dishes according to the market.
At night begin with tiny snails pan-fried with garlic and parsley, parmesan polenta, raw cèpes mushrooms with hazlenut oil and jus de viande. From Terre et Terroirs choose saddle of rabbit stuffed with foie gras and Medjoul dates, chanterelle and hazlenut purée, rosemary jus or Black Bigorre pork ribs simply roasted with garlic, trotters in batter, chanterelles, and thyme jus. Fish dishes include line caught black seabream, seared on the grill, artichoke and fennel with turmeric. Chef-Patissier Pascal Picasse works closely with chef Broda to create balanced light, airy desserts. Pineapple carpaccio with lime and sorbet. Blueberry ice cream soufflé, cômpote of seasonal fruits. Muscat grapes sit on a moist almond cake paired with lavender ice cream. The restaurant's atmosphere is bright, efficient service with a smile is by pretty girls straight from central casting. From the comprehensive wine list choose a white 2007 Abbaye de Lérins cuvée Saint Pierre (60€) and the red BandolChâteau Vannière 2006 (61€). The beach restaurant has been completely transformed into a state-of-the-art space with DJ, designer mattresses, private gazebos and bistro/bar serving hip cocktails and a generous menu of antipasti, chicken and crab salads and tempting desserts. They'll even bring it to you under the shady parasol. Who could ask for more?
Margaret Kemp is Editor at Large at www.bonjourparis.com
