Travel & Leisure

Despite the restrictions that have been imposed on its population – a deplorable humanitarian situation, finances primarily reserved for military purposes, malnutrition, education and health care almost inexistent – the Burmese people remain profoundly generous and dispose of an overwhelming kindness.

Striving for democracy

Moreover, Aung San Suu Kyi, (General Aung San’s daughter) remains the symbol of the resistance against the Junta (Sakharov price ‘59, Nobel price for peace ‘91) . Liberated since November 13th 2010, after 7 years of imprisonment in her native villa – in spite of UNO intervention on several occasions - Aung San Suu has continued her father’s battle to restore a true democracy in Burma. Burma is a country still unaffected by mass tourism, displaying an extraordinary generosity, a country no to be forgotten. It needs responsible tourism to show the Burmese people we care.

Smile from the heart

6 o’clock in the morning in Yangoon: heavy traffic and a humid heat, but nothing can stop us to finally discover Burma. Often dreamed of and now becoming reality. First impression, the smile of our touring guide, Zaw. A smile coming from the heart, illuminating his whole face, showing his pleasure to meet Europeans. At last, here we are; at the Grosvenor’s Residence; our first dip into Burmese culture in Yangoon .

A house breathing a colonial atmosphere

This colonial house, originally property of the Governor of the Kayah state in 1920, then state hotel with 7 rooms after independence, was bought by the Orient Express Company in1998 to be restored in its former glory. Finally in 2008, the architect François Greek, created 10 new luxury rooms. In a clever combination of Burmese and colonial architecture, it features several small houses in luscious green surroundings. The two-floor main house offers a great ground floor restaurant overlooking the garden, as well as a small salon, a bar and a boutique with lacquer ware, one of Burma’s specialties. Small paths lead to the rooms in the small houses nestled in the garden, accessible via an exterior staircase. Every room has shining parquet floors, an open bath room and is decorated with local silk work in traditional Burmese motifs. The marriage between the simplicity of this colonial villa and the numerous pagodas and temples create an atmosphere of eternal harmony in Yangoon.

A different experience
Time to continue exploring the other treasures of Burma and its inhabitants. Our young guide, Zaw, brings us to our next stop in Yangoon; the Pagoda of Schwedagon (2500 years old).
Perched on a hill top at 62 meters, this fantastic decor of strange domes, vaults and gigantic needles, all covered with gold leaves (5000 kg of gold) dominates the town by the height of its pagoda (now 110m). An extraordinary religious city, displaying an antique as well as an elegant atmosphere. To get there, you have to climb the hundreds of steps, eroded by the numerous pilgrims. Recently an elevator has been installed to access the terraces. Thousands of stupa, generous gifts, are scattered over the terraces where thousands of Burmese come to honour Buddha each day, to pray, to pick-nick, asking for luck by sprinkling Buddha or ringing the bells. From the terraces you have a breathtaking view of the surroundings.

A 72 meter long Buddha
Next stop, a visit to the Chaunk Htat Gyi monastery, where a 72 m long and 13m high, resting Buddha watches over the happiness of his people. Erected by a rich family, 40 years ago, he observes the world with his glass eyes and welcomes a large number of visitors every day. Our stroll continues with a visit of the city centre of Yangoon where, to our surprise, you will find the remains of the colonial district in an un restored state, according to the government’s wish.

Life on the (black) market

On the pavements, life is buzzing with a multitude of little stands, street restaurants proposing their « Monthinga » - vermicelli soup – to be consumed on colourful doll's chairs. It’s here that the « bouquinistes » are at home. We discover all sorts of books; political, economic, written in different languages. You can almost find anything here; portable phones for 500$, as well as local phone cards). Excessive prices when you know that a month’s salary is around 65 $ for a workman and between 150 à 300 $ for other professions.

Products at outrageous prices

Cars are also outrageously expensive. Count a minimum of 15000$ for a 20 year old second hand car, in addition an extra 100% tax is added, therefore inaccessible for the population. Only business men and military can afford it. Nobody can buy a car without a request to the authorities and then it will be hard to obtain permission without passing via different intermediary. Corruption on all levels is intertwined with society.

A mixed population
On the roads, not a cycle in sight, they are forbidden and only allowed on the small side ways and paths. Yangoon is a mix of different cultures, Burmese and Chans, Karens and Tchins, Malaysian Chinese … mingling with a few Europeans. In the street the merchants show their goods and keep on smiling, even when you’re not buying anything. No solliciting. A complete change of scenery and respect towards tourists. No harassment, a great liberty and the most incredible discovery, Burma has thousands of "cyber cafés"!

You also have to visit the Scott market, immense and multicoloured, saris, hats, turbans compose a vibrant scene leaving us enchanted! The first impressions of Burma are not always easy to decode, but once you dive into this rich culture you will discover the secrets of this wonderful country.