Enchanting Edinburgh
Edinburgh, the former capital of the kings of Scotland, the cradle of Reform and today the seat of the Scottish Parliament, with its bewildering landscape and monuments sprouting up everywhere, seems straight out of a J.KRowling or Tolkien novel. This city which Walter Scott called the Empress of the North is like Rome, built on seven hills, dotted with bridges, roads breaking through here and there, pedestrian zones bordered with trees and green. Edinburgh has so much more to offer than whiskey, kilts, bagpipes and haunted castles.
Getting into the shady side of history
«Good morning» calls out the driver behind the wheel of his taxi with a toonish air. Perfectly Scottish: here you can tell immediately you are in Scotland thanks to their charming way of rolling their «Rs», and of course to the right. And as you make your way into the city, on the main road called «Princes Street» your imagination will be running rampant as you immerse yourself in the history of Tony Blair’s hometown. That’s because there are two sides to Edinburgh: there’s Castle Rock, perched on its volcanic peak, (nowadays, only assaulted by tourists) and the Old Town (the medieval area) with its Georgian quarters built at the end of the l8th century around facades with flights of stairs and circular gardens.
It is undeniable that Edinburgh, which was acclaimed «capital of literature» by UNESCO in 2004, is a curious blend of historical, fantastic and realistic novels.
The Old Town, which was registered as a UNESCO World Humanity Heritage site, is characterized by Gothic alleys where the sounds of its past still echo. Make sure you have good walking shoes to head out for the assault of those passageways (close) that link the lower and upper parts of the city.
Take time out for a drink or lunch at one of the floating terraces at the Leith port. Here on the paved boardwalk, you will come under the spell of the romantic charm of the old Victorian warehouses, typical taverns and trendy bars.
The key link: the Balmoral
Built in 1895 by W. Hamilton Beattie and A.R. Scott, and owned in those days by the North British RailwayCompany, the hotel and its famous Clock Tower are part of the pride and joys of the city. In the 60s, princesses, politicians and the likes frequented this Victorian-decorated gem décor, both romantic and bold at the same time. It was in 1991, that it went through a complete identity change. Following the reconstruction works, it regained the splendour of its glorious past under the name of Balmoral and in 1997, it became the leading hotel of the Rocco Forte Series. Ever since, this establishment (188 rooms including 20 suites) has swept up one award after the other with no end in sight. It has no intention of getting caught up in clichés either. On the contrary, it magnificently blends Victorian-style décor with contemporary. Completely renovated in 2004, the hotel has paid a tribute to Scottish nature and past nostalgia. With its high ceilings and its turrets, the Balmoral has very much taken on the airs of a castle watching over Castle Rock, the sea, Calton Hill (the Acropolis ofEdinburgh) or Holyrood Park. Moreover, walking into its immense hallway, is one sensational experience. More than a hotel, the Balmoral is a blend of art at its best: at Hadrian's gourmet restaurant (one Michelin star), JeffBland emphasizes a refined cuisine with regional accents; Champagne or tea at Bollinger Bar, the choice is cosmopolitan. As far as the rooms go, they all have true Scottish flair. Suite 552 became the «J.K. Rowling» suite after the famous creator of the Harry Potter put her finishing touches to the book «Harry Potter and theDeathly Hallows» right there. Lastly, on this literary note, in 2007, the Condé Nast Traveller wrote up a glorifying account of the holistic Ytsara treatments at the hotel spa. Fantastic and festive, small but dynamic, in August Edinburgh also becomes the largest artistic festival in the world and a cultural frenzy takes over the city. To be consumed, without moderation!
Septembre 2008
