Travel & Leisure


Le Métropole: a historybook at the heart of Hanoi

 


Hanoi , city of excitement, but also the city of water, reflection and introspection. The Red River acts as a protective barrier and the city winds itself around its two lakes: the Hoan Kiem and the Ho Hay Lake. On the weekends people flock together on the shores and during the week is serves as a place for daily for tai chi exercises. At the heart of the old French quarter, facing the ex-governors’ palace and only a stone's throw away from the Opera - inspired by the Palais Garnier – you will find Le Métropole, the mythic hotel in Hanoi. Guided tour with Luxe Magazine.

 

Le Métropole, a living myth

Built at the dawn of the 20th century, to be precisely in 1901, Le Métropole is a history book that immerses you in the heart of  French Indochina. This is the hotel  where numerous famous personalities stayed and their shadows still lurk around the corner, like Charlie Chaplin and his wife Paulette Goddard who spent their honeymoon trip here. In the bar you can still sip a cocktail named after them. Many great names on the hotel record like Joan Baez, who during the Vietnam war stayed in this hotel, William Somerset Maugham and famous writer Graham Greene, who in 1957 in this hotel, began to write "American in Paris". Each suite has been dedicated to one of these legendary figures.


A symbol of the French colonization

Miraculously spared by Ho Chi Minh, who initially saw in Le Métropole a symbol of French colonisation, the hotel became the seat of numerous diplomatic representations. Today, this colonial jewel of the beginning of this century, rescued from the torments of history, regained its former splendour. Classic white façades, windows dressed with wrought-iron balconies and bottle green shutters, timeless fans hanging from the ceiling, centuries-old carpentry and its ceramic lighting, this legendary hotel breathes its past and this makes it a popular rendezvous in Hanoi.

 

Three restaurants, three atmospheres

In the evening, you can discover the best of Vietnamese gastronomy at the "Spices Garden" restaurant. With a contemporary decoration, bright colours and veranda, the restaurant offers a healthy and refined cuisine with exotic flavours, featuring Vietnamese herbs, spices and other well known traditional specialties of Northern and Southern Vietnam.


French gastronomy can be found in the “Le Baulieu” restaurant, where you have to make a reservation in advance. This elegant restaurant offers the best of French cuisine in town featuring a great selection of imported products. The Beaulieu is particularly famous for evening dinners and Sunday brunches, which have become a tradition for Hanoi residents. The restaurant has an Indochina atmosphere: marble and wooden floors, large bay windows onto the street, ceiling fans and candlelight at night. And there is the wine bar "Angelina" the place to be for the incrowd of the red and black town. Otherwise, the "Oriental Club" restaurant is a nice alternative. Just a few steps away from Le Métropole, this restaurant with a neo colonial ambiance, has a very pleasant service and has a Vietnamese menu in a warm and intimate setting. But in Hanoi you will find multiple small inexpensive restaurants where you can enjoy the real Vietnamese cuisine.

 

Discovering the Vietnamese soul

In the morning after a refreshing shower, it’s time to go out and discover the softness of Hanoi. It’s better to hire a guide who can lead you to mysterious places unknown to mass tourism, so you can capture the essence of the Vietnamese soul and its legends. Jean-Yves and Christian, founders of Aca Voyages, are people who are captivated by the Vietnamese history and understand its culture and lifestyle. Thanks to them, we look differently at the country’s customs and habits.



Lifestyle in Hanoi

When stepping outside the hotel, you are immediately in the middle of the city buzz and traditions. You see the Vietnamese people with their conical hats rushing by on their bicycles loaded with baskets of flowers, a peasant woman selling vegetables using an ancient balance and the street kitchens are diffusing the smells of the famous "pho" soup, grilled fish and garlic. The streets are as crowded as in our European mmetropolises. Swarms of mopeds, sometimes transporting an entire family, loaded with baskets rush by. In this maze of people accompanied by the sound of klaxons, Christian keeps its phlegm and he is amused when he sees our amazed eyes.


The 36 Corporations

He explains to us that Hanoi is constructed with the working force of the inhabitants of the surrounding countryside. More than 900 years ago, the peasants came to work for the Royal Court and settled in the vicinity of the Royal Palace. These are the quarters of the city centre on the edge of the Red River, that used to house the shopping streets. Each street is still named after the goods that were sold or manufactured in this street: sugar street, hemp street, chicken street, Tin, stainless steel … It’s in these old quarters that you will find the "36 corporations", a maze of alleyways the heart of Hanoi's craft industry. Guided by Christian we visit local markets, far from the tourist circuits. The small stalls with abundant baskets of fruits and vegetables on the sidewalks. Freshly cut meat, awaiting the buyer. One feels that Hanoi is still a rural town.
In the afternoon, with our guide Hung, a humorous Vietnamese man mastering perfect French, we visit the handicraft villages located on the outskirts of Hanoi. These villages are not very touristic and are worth a visit.

 

Hanoi, city of arts

But Hanoi is also the city of arts and painting. Take a stroll trough the district of the Temple of literature. Built in the 11th century and their teaching is based on Confucian values with emphasis on arts such as poetry, music, calligraphy. This open-air temple appears draped in red robes, the colour of the walls. Engraved in stone, on a base in the form of a turtle, you see the names of the scholars and laureates. You will see students or visitors passing by and touching the turtles to bring them good luck and culture. In Hanoi you can visit a Multitude of temples (Den), pagodas and communal houses (Dinh). The Ba Da is a pretty Pagoda dating from 1056, intimate and close to Joseph Church in Thai To street. The Thanh Chuong Palace and its pagodas with red and green roofs also remains one of the places of art and culture.
4 days would not be sufficient to explore all the facets of this fascinating and touching city, where the lifestyle has remained both traditional whilst the Vietnamese youth clearly has a more modern approach in accordance with the 21st century.

Juin 2013
By ERNA GRACE

My opinion:
Hotel “Le Metropole” truly deserves a stay or least a lunch or dinner in these mythic surroundings. Some of the rooms in the historical part are a little smaller than the new rooms in the new Opera wing, but they breathe a charm that the new ones don’t have even when they are larger and more modern.
When visiting Hanoi, I advise you to contact ACA Voyages, very professional and they are able to show different face of Hanoi beyond the regular tourists tracks.
Take the opportunity to make excursions outside Hanoi, the Ha Long Bay, in Hué. The North and South of the Vietnam are very beautiful and deserve to be visited.
Taste street cuisine and you will be surprised by the freshness and tastefulness of the products.

Le Métropole
15 Ngo Quyen street
T: + 84 ' 3 826 69 19
www.sofitel.com 

ACA travel
Founded in 2007, ACA Voyage, has chosen to position themselves to be an agency for the demanding clientele. ACA travel reinterprets the "classic" circuit in a new way with emphasis on authenticity and exclusivity. Specializing in the travel à la card, this agency tries to offer its clientele a tailor made travel experience. Change of scenery, culture, dream beaches, sporting activities or luxury dreamACA travel creates for you an unequalled journey. Personalized service, fair prices, sincerity, respect for the environment and local customs… This is the ACA spirit. ACA travel, consists of a team of 10 people, Western and Vietnamese, is co-chaired by two passionate people, Christian Deville, aged 35, founder and president, arrived about 8 years ago and never left Vietnam… and Jean-Yves Blanc, 42, General Director, active in tourism since 1990. Discovered this destination in 2003, and decided to stay in 2008. Two personalities: Christian the creative one, vietnamophone, inexhaustible on the history and culture of Vietnam, will find you a little-known ancient pagoda or the deserted beach stretch you dream of…He is "the architect" of your dreams, and also the master of operational logistics. Jean-Yves is responsible for the commercial and promotional activities of the agency and the relations with suppliers and partners. This sympathetic duo will seduce you and undoubtedly you meet them during your trip.
How contact them:
Christian Deville: christian.deville@aca-voyage.com
Jean-Yves Blanc: jeanyves.blanc@aca-voyage.com
Skype: jeanyvesblanc
Website: www.aca-voyage.com
ACA travel is founding member of the association "les Artisans Voyagists d’Asie du Sud-Est” regrouping small organisations working with the same philosophy on the 4 destinations Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar.
www.artisans-voyagists.com

63 T Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi.
Tel: (00.84) 43.942.97.24
Fax: (00.84) 43.942.97.25

Airline flying to Vietnam: Vietnam Airlines
Vietnam Airlines connects the finest sites of Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.
Classified World Heritage of Unesco: Bay of Ha Long, Luang Prabang and Angkor
As from June 2010 Vietnam airlines is part of the SkyTeam, with 8 direct nonstop flights with a Boeing 777. An intermediate class between the economy and business called "classe Eco-de-Luxe" with personal service (video, video games, computer connection), featuring 54 seats, separated 1 m. from passenger in front and 135° angle chair inclination. The Business class, with 25 seats, 175° chair inclination, offers even more space and service. Prices are interesting: ranging from €2340 TTC for business class, from €1246 TTC for the Eco-de-Luxe class and from €824 TTC for economy class.

Vietnam Airlines
51/53 av des Champs-Elysées
75008 Paris
T: +33 1 44 55 39 90
commercial@vietnamairlines.fr 
www.vietnamairlines.com

Travel agencies for Vietnam:
Compagnie du Monde, Kuoni, Jet Tours, Voyageurs du Monde


To do:
-The first thing to do is probably the Hoan Kiem Lake, a wonderful location with the small charming bridge. Take a stroll under the trees and sit down for a large ice-coffee.
-The Opera House, in colonial style, completed in 1911 and renovated in 1997, has a great cultural and historical significance and hosts many events of great quality.
-Water puppet theatre is just five minutes by push cycle from the Sofitel Metropole Hanoi. It’s a Vietnamese classic and located since the 11th century in the delta of the Red River.
-Handicraft villages around Hanoi: West of the city, the ceramics village of Bat Trang and the village of folk painting Dong Ho, whose inhabitants produce the Dzó paper for over 300 years. South of Hanoi, the silk village of Van Phuc and lacquer village of Duyen Thai. Each village has its own shops and you can buy half price in comparison to Hanoi.
-A trip to Ha Long Bay, go to Tam Coc, or the site of Ninh Binh, an hour drive from Hanoi. You can book a trip on a junk boat and experience its natural beauty: limestone cliffs that emerge from the deep marine shallow waters.
-Palace of Thanh Chuong and its pagodas with red and green roofs remain the centre of art and culture. Founded in 2001, 30 km from the centre of Hanoi, this property comprises several buildings that reflect the diversity of the architectural heritage of the Vietnam. Each building is home to antiques and historical artwork.
-Inaugurated in 1975, the Ho Chi Minh Museum and mausoleum, a building in marble, granite and precious wood. A beautiful pagoda in the form of a lotus resting on a stone pillar is located in the vicinity.

Restaurants:

The Oriental Club
The wooden swing doors open upon your arrival. On each side of the hallway a stream of water with fish swimming in all tranquility. A room on the mezzanine level, a low ceiling, wooden floors and a central kitchen that allows you to witness the preparation of each dish.
A good cuisine with featuring Vietnamese specialties at reasonable prices.
Starter from $6 – main dish from $ 12.50
The Oriental Club
22 Tong Dan St. Hoan Kiel dist
Hanoi
T °: (84 4) 3826 8801
www.oneasia.biz

Green Tangerine
A restaurant held by French, one is working in the kitchen. A lovely paved courtyard welcomes you, with a few bistro tables placed on the sidewalk, hanging plants for decoration which reflects the colonial spirit.
The hosts are charming, an interesting menu and the prices are correct (between 5 and €10 for a starter and 7-€15 for a main course). Featuring an Asian cuisine with Vietnamese specialities like Pho soup but also European dishes reinterpreted with local fruit and spices.
Green Tangerine
48 Hang Be
Hanoi T °: + 84 4 3828 9167

Quan an Ngon
Located in an old colonial House with its terrace wound around a century-old tree with tables placed under huge sun umbrellas, or indoors. You can choose a variety of fresh products on various stands which will be cooked in front of you.
Very popular by the Vietnamese, you will here find the spirit of the country and its local specialities.
Count from 2 to €7 for each course
Quan year Nghon
18 Phan Chau Bôi
T: + 84 4 3942 8162 / 3942 8163

Street restaurants:
Unlike other countries, you can safely enjoy street food of Vietnam. The meat is impeccable, as the Vietnamese are very sensitive to the quality of the products.
We propose Dac Biet (we tested this with our guide, Hung) or Cha Cha fish.
You need to know that here each stand only offers a single specialty (Bun cha, Pho soup …).
Very simple on plastic chairs, you can enjoy in the fried fish, cooked in a sort of wok, accompanied by green spinach, fresh onions and coriander.
You should count from 1.50 to €4 per person

To have a drink in an original location with views of the Lake we advise you to visit the Café Pho Co.
You need to cross a silk shop to have access to this terrace, popular by Vietnamese people. You have to climb a three floor spiral staircase to arrive on the terrace, overlooking the Lake and the city.
Order the famous Smoothie (pressed fruit)
Café Pho Co
Nguyen Tuân
Tai 11 Hang gai
T °: + 84 4 39288 153


The Intercontinental
The Intercontinental bar is also a extremely popular place to go for a drink because of its location overlooking the Lake, soothing surroundings with delicous cocktails and good music.


Shops:


You can find silk in the old town in the District of 36 corporations.
Tropical
Nice shirts, jackets, skirts, throws, European-style house objects, well worked and at very reasonable prices.
From $ 28 to $ 65
Tropical
65 Hang Gal str Hoan Kiem Dis
Hanoi
T °: + 84 4 3928 72 03

Huong Silk
Also a few pretty blouses and dresses but more traditional. Good price/quality ratio.
From $18
Huong silk
43 rue Hang Gai
Hanoi
T °: + 84 4 38 255 379

Jewellery
NGO thi Thu Huong
This small interesting shop sells silver jewellery, pearls and coloured gems. They are very affordable produce original quality fantasy jewellery.
From $ 15.00
Ngjo thi Thu Huong
62 Hang Nhang
T °: + 84 4 3828 1046

Massages
It''s almost unthinkable that you come to Asia, without testing a few massages, it’s part of the culture and I can highly recommend you: Anam QT Spa
There are 3 addresses, including one not far from the St. Joseph’s Church.
The entry doesn’t look very inviting but once inside, you arrive in a small room where a relaxing atmosphere is awaiting you. You have a nice view on the top floor overlooking the city and the cabins are extremely clean.
They offer a large variety of massages: four hands, Shiatsu and foot reflexology.
Prices from €13 for an hour of foot massage to 30- €35 for the other massages
Unwind and enjoy this divine experience!
Anam QT spa
28 Thai To st., Hoan Kiem Dist.
T °: + 84 4 928 61 16
www.qtanamspa.com