"Set in Style: The jewellery of Van Cleef & Arpels"
The “Set in Style: The jewellery of Van Cleef & Arpels” exhibition at the Smithsonian’s Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, New York, examines the renowned jewellery firm’s significant historical contributions to jewellery design and design innovation, particulary during the 20th century.
Innovative jewellery on display
Since its 1906 opening on the Place Vendôme in Paris, Van Cleef & Arpels has played a leading role in style and design innovation. Pioneering techniques and designs, combined with an attention to craftsmanship, are at the core of Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery and small precious objects. The exhibition features more than 300 works, including jewels, timepieces, fashion accessories and objets d’art by Van Cleef & Arpels, many of which were created exclusively for American clientele, along with design drawings, commission books, fabrication cards and imagery from the firm’s archives.
“Set in Style” is organised by six principal themes: Innovation, Transformation, Nature, Exoticism, Fashion and Personalities. The most notable technical innovation perfected by Van Cleef & Arpels is the “Mystery Setting” technique in which the setting does not show between the stones, creating a solid field of colour.
Objects that transform into other objects is one of the other specialties of the jewellery house, like the “Zip” jewellery, where a necklace is zipped together to create a bracelet. The firm’s whimsical designs are stylised to celebrate the spirit of the natural world rather than reality, and such as, its roses will never appear with thorns and its birds have no claws…
The lure of exotic travel and an ever-widening international base of clients inspired Van Cleef & Arpels to produce objects inspired from all parts of the globe and even Maharajahs were thrilled by the firm's Indian designs. For fashion the invention of the “Minaudière” (a clutch with compartments for lipstick, comb, mirror, cigarette case etc.) paired well with the clean lines of Chanel and other designers at the height of their popularity in the 1930s.
Concentrating on those with an American connection, the exhibition will show the impact of trendsetting American women. Objects include a tiara worn by H.S.H. Princess Grace of Monaco as well as jewelley owned by Liz Taylor, Eva Perron and Marlene Dietrich.
The pieces are showcased in installations by designer Patrick Jouin until June 5th 2011 at the Smithsonian’s Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, New York.
